lovetriangle: (tim)
[personal profile] lovetriangle
Regarding the PDSvN dress, anyway.

I get hung up on projects when I attack a certain aspect of it and it doen't work/look the way I want it to. It leaves a bad taste in my mouth and I don't want to work on the entire thing again until I come up with a solution to the sticking point.

My current hang-up is the strapwork sections on the kirtle for the PDSvN dress. I like the look and everything is cut out but the silver soutache gets torn up by even a size 9 machine needle. I've done 3/4 of a panel by hand and my sticthing isn't fine enough - it looks lumpy and I'll have to tear it out.

I really want to do this by machine to make sure it sits flat on the sleeves. Not to mention there are 4 panels per sleeve and I'll be working on this to my grave if i try and do it by hand. Any suggestions?

Here's what the design looks like:


And here's the braid style - but all metallic.

Date: 2006-05-26 05:51 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] colleency.livejournal.com
I'm sorry that I don't have any suggestions, but here's a hug for your frustration. :(

Date: 2006-05-26 06:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jillwheezul.livejournal.com
Just thinking - what if you tried to fuse it with that fine line fusible web with the paper on one side? That would get it to lay nice and flat (and straight). Then you might be able to stitch it down invisibly - but I also find that the fuse layer can be a bugaboo.

I'd also think about trying to sew the trim down over the top of the trim to add a textural element and make it all easier. Let's see if I can explain. Since the pattern is a Chevron and I don't especially like working with metallic thread, I would take white pearl cotton and stitch from the back of the fabric to the front at the side of the trim (in the white area) and bring the needle to the center of the trim, following the slant of the pattern. Kind of a big overcast stitch that followed the chevron pattern. It might also be cool to do it in a thread that matched the base fabric for additional texture. Am I making any sense?

Date: 2006-05-26 06:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] gilded-garb.livejournal.com
Hmmm...anytime I have delicate trims, I usually hand crank my machine. It's faster and neater than hand sewing but kind of hard on the arm and shoulder. Other than that, I've got nothing.

I'm sorry this project's got you frustrated. It really is going to look fantastic when it's done!

Date: 2006-05-26 09:07 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] love3angle.livejournal.com
Yeah, I'm thinking I might do that as well. I also might try and find size 8 needles and hope they don't break every 5 stitches.

Date: 2006-05-26 09:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] love3angle.livejournal.com
Yeah that makes sense. I had been stitching it right down the middle with a running stitch but it just isn't smooth because my hand stitching isn't that fine.

The other thing is that the trim I'm using is all metallic, not striped like the picture, and that is teh root of my problem. The metal outerlayer doesn't like to be pierced. I like the overcast stich from the edge idea and it may not show using gray thread...

I'll ty a couple of things over the weekend and report back.

Date: 2006-05-26 09:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] love3angle.livejournal.com
Thanks *sniff*

Date: 2006-05-27 12:24 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] peggyelizabeth.livejournal.com
you might have to loosen the tension on the machine a little bit, but the smaller needle might just do it.

Date: 2006-05-27 02:01 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pinkdiamond.livejournal.com
Might it also be the thread that is tearing up the trim? I wound up using monofilament for the sleeves of my Valois dress (the inner striped ones) as the trim is also prone to tearing up.

What kind of frame do you have supporting your sewing for handwork? For straps I wrap one end around the side of a frame pull the rest taut and pin it to the other and then wrap unwrap as I go. It stabilises it enough but not to the point where the tension of the sewing thread goes slack once it's off.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/lotr/eowyn.htm
That's how I did the belt for the second dress. Same kind of trim, but old gold floss. Oh and I used beading needles;) I think I used back stitch through the middle only.

It's usually more to do with tension than neatness of handsewing that causes it to go skewwiff when handsewing braid:) I know, been there;)

Date: 2006-05-29 04:21 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] love3angle.livejournal.com
I haven't been using any frame at all so I'm sure that is a HUGE contributing factor to my sloppiness. ggggggrrrrrrrrr

I've used beading needles before but I must admit that I can't thread the damn things anymore. ggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

I ran a few strips through my machine again this afternoon and it wasn't as bad as before. I used a lube on the needle, very thin thread and the size 9 needle because I haven't found 8's yet. It's ok. Not great, but ok.

I'm home with Claire all day tomorrow so I'll drag her out in search of small needles.

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