mockup report

Jul. 26th, 2017 11:49 pm
mandie_rw: me in late victorian dress holding book (natformbeige)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I decided to be clever this afternoon, and work on the dinner dress bodice mockup while I had my corset on already. I'd already cut mockup #2 longer when I discovered it to be far too short-waisted (as [personal profile] mala_14  warned me!), so I just had to sew that together and do a try-on.

Hmmmmmm.

Hmmmmmmmmmmm.

Well...despite adding 3" to the length of the body, and 0.5" to each shoulder seam, the damn thing was still at least 2" too short, possibly more. (Is this pattern for people with a 5" long ribcage or WHAT...is this where the notion of freakishly small Victorians came from?) The armscye was still way too small, and the angle of the shoulder seam was totally whack. I wouldn't expect a scaled pattern to fit me right off the bat, but sheesh, was this pattern made by a paint-huffing monkey? Or maybe it was made for a paint-huffing monkey.

Anywhoodle, I decided I have neither the time nor the inclination to pretty much take it to bits and completely refit it...if I wanted to do that I'd have draped a pattern on Mabel from scratch. I didn't want to do that. Truly Victorian it is! Which always takes some tweaking, but which at least I know aren't made by aforementioned paint-huffing monkeys.

So, til I get hold of that (and since I only ordered my wools from FFC just over a week ago, so who knows when those will show up), it's sew-something-else time! I probably ought to do things like finish the skirt that's been hanging over the back of my chair for a week and a half, but I may start something Gettysburg-related instead.

Costume College!

Jul. 26th, 2017 03:46 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
Hooray! We've made it here!

My twill tape for my limited class is at home. Oops...

Beige bodice NEVERMORE

Jul. 26th, 2017 04:14 pm
mandie_rw: (Default)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I'm even tired of the word "beige" at this point, sheesh. But I'm quite happy with how it came out, and I think it looks loads better than the Ugly Shirtwaist! (Which won't be retired, like, ever, because it's great for hot weather. But now at least I have another option.)

Blog post here
sitting on steps
Amusingly, there was a truck JUST out of frame in all these pics...they were setting up for some sort of event, and there was an enormous truck and trailer just to the left side of the house. And half my pics had some rando in a red t-shirt walking back and forth in the background. Ahhh, gotta love editing! xD

And now I am totally going to be late to work because I wanted to get this all out of the way before I went! Heh.

things

Jul. 25th, 2017 10:27 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
- At this point in time, I feel moved to almost offer my condolences to those of you going to Costume College; you guys seem so stressed! (Not all of you...but a lot.) I guess when you're a veteran it's worth it...? but as someone who's never been, it sounds pretty miserable at this point!

- Beige print bodice of never-ending-ness and its silly cuffs are done, although not in time to get pics today. Hurray! This damn thing's dragged on waaaaay too long (long enough that I'm tired of the bottom half before I ever got to wear the top half!).

- I've gotten fairly tired of my red spoon bonnet (yes, I'm still keeping Gettysburg in mind, even as I work on Belvidere); after all, I've been wearing it since 2011! I still love the color (shocking I know), but it was a synthetic, albeit a decent one, and it's fairly crap construction-wise, involving a polyester lining and even *gasp* glue. I know. 2011 was a long time ago. *grin* But I sternly told myself I wasn't allowed to replace it unless I sold it off first. Amazingly, somebody bought it (actually two somebodies tried to buy it), and I sent it off today. So that'll just about pay for the two yards of taffeta to cover and trim the new one! Well, it'll be two yards if I go with the navy option, as I would trim that in pink...but I keep coming back to a brick red and copper shot that's baaaaasically the same color as the bonnet I just got rid of! I might have a fixation on dark reds, you guys.

(The solution here is obviously to make two bonnets. Ha ha ha.)

Or no new hat...

Jul. 25th, 2017 04:35 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I was enjoying working on the hat last night, and then I wasn't. So I decided I was done, and I'm wearing the antique hat.

With that, I'm ready for Costume College!

beige bodice, one more time

Jul. 24th, 2017 11:46 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I thought I was almost done...but then as I was ironing the pleats of voile for the white collar, it occurred to me that I ought to have cuffs as well! Damn. Wish it hadn't occurred to me, haha. I could make plain ones, but I know that pleated ones to match the collar (and the upper side of the dress fabric cuffs, for that matter) will look better. Okay, okay...

It's supposed to be in the low 80s tomorrow and Wednesday, so I'll gussy up and get photos one of those days (it might rain tomorrow so I can't promise tomorrow). And then I can wad the whole thing up into my 19thc costume bin and be done with it, whew! It's been hanging around for far too long. And then back to the dinner dress! I think.

Hat...

Jul. 24th, 2017 04:47 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
The suffragette hat frame is done. I had to do the curved part of the crown twice since I set it too low the first time. I think it's going to work. It's at that awkward stage where your hair isn't done and the opening isn't lined and the buckram base has awful stitches, but it's promising!

(no subject)

Jul. 24th, 2017 02:53 pm
theladyrebecca: (Default)
[personal profile] theladyrebecca
Everything for CoCo is finished(ish). I tried on the finished Belle dress for the first time last night, and there's a weird baggy section in the center of the back. So I'm trying to decide if I want to redo the zipper in that one section to take it in. I think it will depend on how much free time I wind up having this evening. I opted to work late to get more hours, which means I'll likely only have less than an hour at home before my audition. And then I'll probably be home at about 8pm, and since I have to wake up between 2am-2:30 to get to the airport, I should go to bed right away. So basically, right now I'm leaning towards not fixing it. 

I also made the stupid mistake of leaving an uncapped highlighter on my sewing table last night, and it spent the night touching one of the ties on the vintage apron I'm wearing for Belle. I tried bleaching it this morning, which lightened it, but did not make it go away. I'm going to try oxyclean when I get home. 

And I still need to pack some of my regular outfit stuff, for Disney, Thurs, and next Monday. Then the very last stuff I won't be able to pack till tomorrow morning. But I did most of it over the weekend, including driving over an hour to Everett, so that my roommate could bring down the bigger and less packable things for me. So glad she drives down!

Cleves approaches

Jul. 24th, 2017 04:56 am
glittersweet: (Default)
[personal profile] glittersweet

I was going to do a lot of machine sewing to get her ready for Coronation so I instead took the time I had to sew by hand. Some of it went really welll, some like the haube is fiddly because the accessories are just not the way we are used to. I need to make my haube tie and also make sure all the gathers are near the crown. I may wind up pleating on my head form instead.


There may even be time to get pearls on the partlet. What is weird is I have a very long neck so I can wear my collar and show the full band of gold.


 


Okay, I now have my second lot of antibiotics 9note, not for the flu but for the secondary bacterial infection I have had since day two of the flu!)

Fort Mott Boer War Event

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:10 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Second Boer War, to be specific.

(The Facebook event just said "Boer War", mind you, with no dates. Apparently this is colloquial for the second war...but as 1/ we didn't know this til yesterday as that's when the park put up the event description, and 2/ none of us have c.1900 summer dresses anyway...we cheerfully assumed it was the first war in the early 1880s, as that's what we have clothes for. As assumed...nobody cared. *grin*)
boer war 1
Read more... )

Robin's flickr album here

Save

sweating my tits off

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:23 pm
robinsnest: (Default)
[personal profile] robinsnest
Apparently there is a Fort at the tip of NJ named Fort Mott. I just learned this as somehow via the magic of Facebook [personal profile] mandie_rw , [personal profile] miss_philomena , [personal profile] hiraimi and I found and ended up at a Boer War reenactment there today. Now the even just said "Boer war and Victorian something something something" so I googled Boer war and went "perfect I have 1880s"...Guess who didn't tell Robin there are apparently TWO Boer wars. Cause if you're gonna get in a fight over something the british like to do it twice. 100 years war, revolution and war of 1812, WWI and WWII....luckily for us no one disowned us for wearing our 1880s natural form dresses.
Untitled




 
I of course got a bit turned around when picking Alice up so we were a few min late, I think Amanda and Adrienne saw the entire event in the 20 min for us to catch up...oops. I did a quick change in the parking lot, much to the stares of the family BBQ. *ahem excuse me as I drop my skirt. yes I'm wearing bloomers*




We got there just in time to huff it up the walls of the fort to watch the "battle." I know I know the military half of this isn't MY personal jam but I'd rather you just did a weapons demo, because a battle of five vs 10 is still pretty silly looking unrealistic. After a 5 min battle in which the Boer's won we promptly left the hot pavement in search of shade and the picnic lunch we had packed.




Luckily for us our friend Mick was there (of Belvidere fame) and we pretty much parked our butts under his tent fly for the rest of the event, sans one quick run to the loo where a probably 8 year old girl was DETERMINED to get some quality first person reenactment experience.


"Are you waiting for the men to come home?"
"What men?"
"But are you waiting for the men to come home?"
"No I'm going to the loo..."

This dress was always intended to have more trim, so as a way of making myself work on things for September BEFORE said month I tried to get more of the trim put on this time. I also got the overskirt made, but only partially trimmed. And I have to say I'm HUGELY pleased with how it turned out.
Untitled


Left on the list is the brown band and top row of ruffle on the overskirt, if there's yardage left I want to add more fullness to the back of the overskirt, I cut it way to skimpy to try and leave enough for trim. I also either need to lose weight or add a placket in the front and move the hooks and eyes over in the bust as it's pulling and gapping and that's bad. oh and bone the bodice. okay I guess it's a long list still...never ending.

I did manage to sweat through everything. It was only in the 80s but with humidity to rival Louisiana, easily one of the hottest times I've gone out in costume. but I always think of myself as someone who does horribly badly in heat and I've done several hot weather things recently and been really proud of how well I did. I loaded up with water the day before, drank tons the day of, and ta-da I survived!

Definitely the Brunswick!

Jul. 23rd, 2017 03:28 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
So, I pulled out the Brunswick, tried it on (sort of, no corset or anything) and remembered the super tight sleeves. Hmph. So, instead of doing the sensible thing and getting something else out, I spent I think about three hours redoing the sleeves. It was fairly easy, just fiddly. Strangely, the upper sleeve was much easier than the lower sleeves, which are just basted in. Those had practically no seam allowance which made it weird. The sleeves all have lapped seams now instead of the original types they had. It's much easier to sew a lapped seam on a set sleeve and a sleeve with almost no seam allowance.

Then I packed and noticed it was three and I hadn't really eaten anything and *thud*

Cleves gown made

Jul. 23rd, 2017 10:25 pm
glittersweet: (Default)
[personal profile] glittersweet

My Anna von Kleve Julich & Berg gown is done aside from some hooks and eyes in the skirt.


The bodice and sleeves fit nicely but I am ver narrow, and after the flu moreso… so today I get to hunt for all the wool shoulderpads I can as I will need enhancement.


The hanging sleeves are finally hemmed, woohoo, and the chemise just needs a button and some seam finishing (the sleeves were french seamed originally and so I need to just tidy a few inches between the cuffs and up the arm. I really want to take some excess linen out but will leave that until I’ve worn it a few times. The sleeves look so pretty though and will make a lot of garb look really good. And I know what my nest two frocks are πŸ™‚ So excited.


So it may be that I will have to use a lot of cunning machine work in my velvet Cologne so that I can actually get her done πŸ™‚


And I may be able to get my documentation for her up fairly soon. But I want the Spanish stuff up first as a handy practical guide πŸ™‚


And I’d like to get all my garb patterns webified especially with so many lovely extant patterns out there now to use as references and (please buy these!!!)


 


I do have my haube. I may use my machine and then hand stitch over the top. That’s how I did my belt. The machine acted like basting which is hidden by gold braid. So I’m just waiting to hear back from some people who want to see this in the next few days and then I can have a proper rest and start collection info for my final workshop πŸ™‚


Oh and my jeweled neckline. That’s a lining. Same with my frontal decoration on my stickelsche.


 


Ah yes. The three panel skirt pattern too.

beige bodice again, again

Jul. 22nd, 2017 11:57 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I was pretty lazy as regards sewing today...I could have gotten the bodice all finished if I'd really tried, but...didn't. xD Tonight I tried it on, "it's really almost done! just need to finish the neck! I could totally wear this tomorrow!", but only had it on for about 35 seconds before I remembered why I wasn't pushing myself to finish and wear it tomorrow. Hot! (The sewing room is un-air-conditioned, and it's still 82 at midnight. Shirtwaist 'tis!)

So I just need to put a facing in the neck edge - Bodice Take 1 had a collar, but that collar doesn't fit anymore, plus the fit of the neck at the back is just a wee bit funky still, and it's a lot more obvious with a collar on. I did a brief survey of my books, and it looks like a ton of early 1880s had just a white collar, rather than a dress-collar-and-white-collar combo. So I have zero qualms about doing a plain finish! (I could pipe it, but I don't want to and you can't make me.) I do still have to make a white collar to tack in, unless the one from my blue wool 1878 dress will work. Don't think it will as that's a v-neckline and this one is much higher, but we'll see.



Extant Gowns I adore

Jul. 22nd, 2017 09:56 pm
glittersweet: (Default)
[personal profile] glittersweet

Β 


Mantua, V&A Museum, London



  • Place of origin: Β Spitalfields (textile, weaving) England (mantua, sewing)

  • Date:Β ca. 1720 (weaving) Β 1720-1730 (sewing)

  • Artist/Maker:Β Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:Β Silk, silk thread, silver-gilt thread; hand-woven brocading, hand-sewn.

  • Museum number:Β T.88 to C-1978

  • Gallery location:Β In Storage

  • Interactive full views


I am not sure if the petticoat and front are original, if they are it’s a lovely example of a non matching set. Β There are a handful of these early mantua that are extant. The very delicate colour choices of pale blue and silver would have made this stand out in candlelight.

Costume College!

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:11 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I think I have a lineup for Costume College! Took me long enough...

Thursday--Beach pajamas, 100% done

Friday Day--Suffragette day dress. Technically 100%, but I want a new hat and new sash, neither of which are mandatory. I have my daisy votes for women ribbon, red, white, and blue one, original button, and a reproduction banner. I really want to make the hat though because I came up with the pattern myself and really want to see how it goes together.

Friday night--Suffragette evening dress. 100%. I'm worried about forgetting to pack the tattoo. After last year forgetting all my jewelry...

Saturday day--Checked Brunswick. I just moved the neck button on my cotton habit shirt that I made about a zillion years ago. I tried on that and the linen shirt I made to go with it in 2013. Not only did the older one fit better, which is a little embarrassing, none of the ruffles were torn off. And the neck button needed to be moved on the linen one too, so easy choice.

Saturday night--Beaded Regency. Another technically 100% because it's done and wearable, but I want the pink springed corset which is almost done.

Sunday day--1790s bird dress. Yes, I just wore it, but I love the construction and birds.

And nicely, these aren't, except for the Brunswick, large costumes. So I'm hoping through strategic packing to have room for large amounts of stash. I've also decided to bring thing things I want to sell. I may be nice, but I'm not giving away 7 yards of silk brocade I'll never use. Either way, I'm freeing up lots of space. Now, time, is another thing! But my leftover stash is pretty much sorted, so it'll just be determining what's free and what's not...

Hat so far

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:22 pm
mala_14: (Default)
[personal profile] mala_14
This is the straw hat after being shaped. Still needs lining and trim. I think I like it, but I'm quite certain I'll like it more with a bunch of crap stuck all over it.


Spring corset number two...

Jul. 21st, 2017 10:32 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I was so happy with the first springed corset, I decided I needed another one, if time worked out. Although I fit the straps on the green one under the beaded dress, I didn't trust them to stay--they did need to be pinned under the bird dress which has a higher neckline.

So now I have a pale pink one started. The springs are in. It has a flat section at the center back and the straps on either side of that. It'll be interesting to see how it works!

I think I can finish tomorrow...

Cleves updates

Jul. 22nd, 2017 04:32 am
glittersweet: (Default)
[personal profile] glittersweet

Firstly some headgear progress πŸ™‚ Becase my pearlwork is so dimensional I need a flat brocade front, and then am able to have a flat but slightly more texture brocade for the haub.



Then we have the brocade for the collar and neckline. Yep, pressed the brocade into a curve! Ditto for the piece above actually πŸ™‚



I’m super happy about the collar πŸ™‚ I keep readjusing the neckline though.


Β 


I have tried it all on and I think I’ll just do some judicious padding of my inner layers as I am rather not as wide across my chest.


The skirt has a flatlining, and I kind of wish I hadn’t but it would require some serious careful unpicking because I used a triple stitch. This makes the diagonal seams as strong as if I had used a backstitch- I’ve had side seams pop a few times and the weight of this hem would definitely do that!



And yes, I have been working on her distinctive partlet πŸ™‚ Pearling is not going to be fun but what the hey?



 

oops

Jul. 21st, 2017 11:30 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Sewed in the side wedges properly, and reboned all the seams today - and then noticed I'd managed to sew it with the bodice front twisted round itself. Whoops. I'll just unpick the shoulder seam, as that's the path of least resistance...

Tomorrow.

(Forecast for Sunday is currently in the mid-80s, so I don't have any pressure to get it done in time for that! Ugly shirtwaist carries the day yet again.)

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